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Kathmandu is celebrating one of the city’s liveliest chariot festivals, ‘Indra Jatra’, from today. The festival lasting for eight days is dedicated to the Hindu god Indra, who is regarded as the King of Heaven as well as the God of Rain, Thunder & Lightning. This is one of the biggest festivals for Newars living in the valley and they call it ‘Yenya’.
According to local legend the custom of celebrating the festival started after Lord Indra was arrested by the denizens of Kathmandu while trying to steal parijat flowers for his mother. As he had disguised himself as a human being, the people of Kathmandu thought he was a common thief. They bound his hands and took him to Maru Tole in Basantapur, where he was tied to a pole. When Lord Indra did not return to heaven, his mother Dakini got worried and came down to earth in search of him. Finding him bound up, she made a pact with the inhabitants that if they freed her son, she would take the souls of those who passed away that year to heaven. The people were sorry that they had captured the God of Rain and immediately freed him. They celebrated his visit to earth with elaborate feasts, songs and dances. The tradition continues to this day.
The festival begins with the setting up of a lingo(wooden pole) at Hanumandhoka. Regarded as the dhwaja (flag) of Lord Indra, it heralds the advent of Lord Indra in the valley. It will be taken down on the last day of the festival.
During the festival, chariots of Kumari, the Living Goddess, Ganesh and Bhairav are pulled along the streets of Kathmandu. Masked dances depicting Lord Indra’s white elephant Erawat searching for his master in the streets of Kathmandu, Mahipa Lakhey and other tableaus depicting Lord Indra’s short sojourn in the valley are performed in street squares. The fearsome masks of Akash Bhairav, Swet Bhairav and Baka Bhairav are displayed outside their shrines. Young men are seen making a beeline to the shrine of Swet Bhairav as a pipe inserted inside the mask dispenses local alcohol.
If you are visiting Kathmandu now, Basantapur Durbar Square is where you should head to. Mingle with the locals, catch traditional street performances and be a part of the city’s most ancient celebrations. This is also one of the rare occasions when the Living Goddess Kumari makes an appearance, as she steps outside her abode and is carried around the street in a chariot.
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*Image Source: Welcome Nepal
